venerdì 20 gennaio 2023

HISTORY OF FASHION ~ Early Victorian Winter Mantelet or Mantlet



Two young Victorian ladies wearing mantlets according to 1850s fashion




WHAT IS A MANTLE CLOTHING

Coats can have many names, but similar terms like mantles and mantelets are confusing. A mantle was originally a long flowing cloak without sleeves that developed into a capacious coat. A mantle would be at least three-quarter length to floor length. 


A Victorian Lady wearing a mantle


A mantelet is a shorter coat with cloak or wrap like qualities often emanating from interestingly devised sleeves or illusion of sleeves.  Mantelet can be spelt mantlet.
The early mantelet or mantelet, mantles clothing of 1730 began life as a simple silk or taffeta cape with a scarf-like formation. It had longer front points that passed and crossed to the waist, often being able to be passed to the back. It came back into favor in various similar forms in the late 1820s, but then the scarf ends reached the knees and sometimes it was called a pelerine.
It remained popular as a scarf like form until the 1840s when it was somewhat supplanted by a fashion for fine wool shawls.
Then, in the 1850s, it revived as a dominant style trend, becoming a fashion garment in its own right, a true style staple that changed the value of the clothes worn underneath and gave the finishing touch to the silhouette.



VICTORIAN MANTLETS

In the early and mid-Victorian era, the mantlet appeared as a harmonious garment, perfectly balanced in length between front and back.
Later it will lose this harmony and will, in fact, become longer to fan out on the hips in order to embrace the dome of the skirts with crinoline which had become wider. Over time the mantlet evolved to become almost a half-jacket with full sleeves, as the arrival of the bustle induced it to become much shorter at the back, often breaking off at the waist, and developing drapes or tails that parted radially or spread out separately above the skirt. The back was invariably different than the front view: sometimes it had longer back tails and a short front and other times it had longer front tails and a shorter back.
In the late Victorian era there will be two main styles of mantlet and what set them apart was how the sleeve area was handled. In both models the sleeves existed, but sometimes they appeared as if they were an illusion: in the first case the sleeve was very evident and was defined as a DOLMAN, it was cut wide and generous especially very wide towards the wrist; 


in the second case it blended in with the drapes of the mantlet.



In late Victorian times, when worn with tonally suitable dress and thus part of a visiting dressing gown, the mantlet will be referred to as a VISITING MANTLET.




As for the fabrics most used for this lovely garment, the tailors made use of smooth velvet, plush cloth, broadcloth and corduroy.
All mantlets were richly trimmed with decorations and borders that changed with the fluctuating styles, personal tastes and, as mentioned above, according to the fullness of the skirts; they were often adorned with contrasting moiré, fur, bands of velvet. They could also be finished with macrame fringe and lace appliqués, used to add a touch of elegance and lightness.







IMAGES
All the sketches published in this post were taken from Le Moniteur De La Mode of April 1850 and an advertisement for Sewell and Comp Soho, London of 1852.


In the hope You've enjoyed the time we spent together today, 
with sincere thankfulness I'm sending my dearest hug to You,  
Dearest Readers and Friends of mine!
See you soon 








STORIA DELLA MODA ~ Mantlets invernali del primo periodo vittoriano


IMMAGINE DI COPERTINA - Due giovani ladies vittoriane che indossano mantles seguendo i dettami della moda degli anni '50 del 1800


IL MANTELLO

I cappotti possono avere molti nomi, ma termini simili come mantelli e mantelline creano, ancora oggi, confusione. Il mantello era originariamente una lunga cappa fluttuante senza maniche che si trasformava in un generoso cappotto e, generalmente, doveva essere lungo almeno tre quarti rispetto alla statura di chi lo vestiva. 


IMMAGINE 2 - Giovane donna vittoriana con mantello


Un mantelet o mantlet  era un capo più corto, svolazzante o avvolgente, qualità che spesso si coniugavano con la creazione di maniche ideate in modo interessante e personalizzato. 
I primi mantlets furono creati nel 1730 come semplici mantelli di seta o taffetà ed avevano il taglio simile ad una sciarpa. Avevano punte anteriori più lunghe che raggiungevano la vita e si incrociavano e potevano spesso essere passate dietro la schiena. Il mantlet tornò in auge in varie forme simili alla fine del 1820, quando le estremità della sciarpa arrivarono fino alle ginocchia e talvolta, in quel caso, veniva chiamata pellerine. Rimase popolare come sciarpa fino al 1840, quando fu in qualche modo soppiantata dalla moda per gli scialli di lana fine.
Quindi, nel 1850, riprese vita come tendenza di stile dominante, diventando un indumento di moda a sé stante, un vero punto di forza dello stile che mutava il valore degli abiti indossati sotto e che conferiva il tocco finale alla silhouette.


IL MANTLET  VITTORIANO

All'inizio e a metà dell'era vittoriana il mantlet  appariva come un capo armonioso, perfettamente bilanciato, quanto a lunghezza, tra davanti e dietro. 
In seguito perderà questa armonia e diventerà, infatti, più lungo per aprirsi a ventaglio sui fianchi onde abbracciare la cupola delle gonne con crinolina che si era fatta più ampia. Col tempo il mantlet si è evoluto fino a diventare quasi una mezza giacca con maniche ampie, perché l'arrivo del bustle lo ha indotto a farsi molto più corto posteriormente, troncandosi spesso all'altezza della vita, e sviluppando drappeggi o code che si aprivano a raggiera o si allargavano separatamente sopra la gonna. La parte posteriore era invariabilmente diversa rispetto alla vista frontale: a volte aveva code posteriori più lunghe e una parte anteriore corta e altre volte aveva, invece, code anteriori più lunghe e una parte posteriore più corta.
Nell'era tardo vittoriana esisteranno due stili principali di mantlet e ciò che li distingueva era come veniva gestita la zona della manica. In entrambi i modelli le maniche esistevano, ma a volte apparivano come se non ci fossero: nel primo caso  la manica era molto evidente ed era definita DOLMAN, era tagliata ampia e generosa soprattutto molto larga verso il polso; 


IMMAGINE 3 - Mantlet con maniche a DOLMAN


nel secondo caso si confondeva con i drappeggi del mantlet e creava un EFFETTO ILLUSIONE.


IMMAGINE 4 - Mantlet con maniche ad EFFETTO ILLUSIONE


In epoca tardo vittoriana, quando veniva indossato con un abito tonalmente adatto e quindi parte di una toilette da visita, il mantlet verrà chiamato MANTLET DA VISITA.


IMMAGINE 5 - MANTLET DA VISITA


Quanto ai tessuti più utilizzati per questo grazioso capo di vestiario, le sartorie si valevano di velluto liscio, di panno felpato, di panno pettinato e di velluto a coste.
Tutti i mantlets erano riccamente rifiniti con decorazioni e con bordi che mutavano con il fluttuare degli stili, dei gusti personali e, come detto sopra, in accordo con l'ampiezza delle gonne; spesso erano ornati con moiré a contrasto, pelliccia, bande di velluto. Potevano anche essere rifiniti con frange in macramè e con applicazioni in pizzo, utilizzati per aggiungere un tocco di eleganza e di leggerezza. 


IMMAGINE 6 ED IMMAGINE 7 - Raccolta di figurini per mantlets in vari stili



IMMAGINI
Tutti i figurini selezionati e pubblicati in questo post sono stati tratti da Le Moniteur De La Mode dell'aprile 1850 e da una pubblicità per Sewell e Comp Soho, London del 1852.


Nella speranza che abbiaTe gradito il tempo trascorso insieme oggi,
con sentita gratitudine Vi invio il mio più sincero abbraccio,
miei Cari Amici e Lettori!
A presto 








LINKING WITH:







This post was featured by Bev at Eclectic Red Barn
Thank you, sweet lady of mine, I'm so excited by this gift of yours, it arrived so unexpected, it truly filled my heart with joy ⊰♥⊱



20 commenti:

  1. These are lovely and as always,I learned something new!

    RispondiElimina
    Risposte
    1. Jeanie,
      It's always a big joy to me to welcome you, you're such a bright light, your enthusiasm is envaluable, thank you!
      Wishing you a wonderful Sunday and new week ahead ♡❤♡

      Elimina
  2. dear dany, i think i would like to have a coat like this! i was thrilled to see your link at the pink saturday site -- happy to know you are alive and well and still a wonderful historian! wishing you the most wonderful new year! xo

    RispondiElimina
    Risposte
    1. Michele,
      Dearest One, I'm alive and well, thank you, and I'm also so so glad to have news from you, I also was worried not to have seen you in Blogland since I have come back, that was the end of last Summer.
      Thanking you for your visit, your beautiful words and your concern, I'm sending my dearest love to you,
      ༺❀༻ may this new year be filled with everything you wish ༺❀༻

      Elimina
  3. It is so interesting how the changed over times in little ways, one thing I have always thought like when seeing the victorian dresses in movies and such is, you would think the cold air would just go up those wide sleeves so easily.

    RispondiElimina
    Risposte
    1. Conniecrafter,
      That's what I also do think, and that's s thing that would annoy me so much!
      Probably the garment they wore under the mantlet had tight sleeves which wrapped around the arms...
      Sending hugs and more hugs to you ❀≼♥≽❀

      Elimina
  4. They're beautiful and finished the outfits nicely. I always learn something from you!

    RispondiElimina
    Risposte
    1. messymimi,
      This is what I think of you, that when I come and visit you I learn something new!
      Sending blessings on your Sunday,
      with sincere thankfulness ❥

      Elimina
  5. So beautiful, but I can't imagine trying to wear any of these outfits.

    Thank you for joining the Awww Mondays Blog Hop.

    Have a fabulous Awww Monday and week. ♥

    RispondiElimina
    Risposte
    1. Sandee,
      Lovely friend of mine, to us today Victorian ladies with their so beautiful dresses are like dolls, we cannot imegine ourselves going to work or having shopping with such decorated and fancy garments, they're just beautiful to see, we can only admire them!
      With sincere gratitude for your always nice visits and words,
      I'm wishing you a most beautiful day, today ♡ஐ♡

      Elimina
  6. So lovely.
    www.rsrue.blogspot.com

    RispondiElimina
    Risposte
    1. Anonimo,
      I'm far glad you've enjoyed it, my friend!
      ✿⋰⋱✿ Thank you ✿⋰⋱✿

      Elimina
  7. I adore Victorian fashion! But on other people, I wouldn't want to wear it myself :-)
    Amalia
    xo

    RispondiElimina
    Risposte
    1. Amalia,
      Dearest friend of mine, I also think that Victorian ladies had a particular shape of body, just fit for their time fashion, for us today I suppose it wouldn't be the same...
      Sometimes I happen to see on the web some women dresses with Vitorian gowns, maybe for historical events, but you see at once that they're nowadays ladies, even if with hairtyles of the time.
      Enjoy your Sunday, Dearie *•.¸♥♥¸.•*

      Elimina
  8. Interesting. I would prefer the mantlet because I need some version of sleeves.

    RispondiElimina
    Risposte
    1. Linda,
      So it's a pity that today nobody can sew such clothes anymore!
      But we're here to dream a little, aren't we?
      With heartfelt gratitude,
      I'm sending my warmest hug across the miles ஜ~Ƹ̴Ӂ̴Ʒ~ஜ

      Elimina
  9. It's always interesting to learn about the history of the things we use everyday.

    RispondiElimina
    Risposte
    1. Donna Reidland,
      I thank you from the bottom of my heart!
      I'm quite sorry for not to be able and reciprocate your visit on a blog of yours...
      I hope that to write that I'm sending you blessings across the many miles is enough to express my gratitude ಌ❀ಌ

      Elimina
  10. Dany,
    Love this post. Congratulations, you are being featured on Wonderful Wednesday Blog Hop. I hope you stop by. https://www.eclecticredbarn.com/2023/02/its-wonderful-wednesday-time.html
    Hugs,
    Bev

    RispondiElimina
    Risposte
    1. Bev,
      Actually, I cannot believe it!
      I thank you from the deep of my heart and wish you a most lovely remainder of your week.
      ༻✦༺ Hugs and more hugs ༻✦༺

      Elimina

I THANK YOU WHOLEHEARTEDLY FOR YOUR THOUGHTS AND WORDS, SO PRECIOUS TO ME.