venerdì 16 giugno 2017

HISTORY OF FASHION ~ EARLY VICTORIAN AGE (1837 - 1848) ~ New Fashion for Dressing the Hair.



As soon as she ascended the throne, on June 20th, 1837, Queen Victoria became immediately a model to be admired and emulated for all the people whom she had been called to govern.



Not very interested in fashion expecially as for clothings (HERE you may read the post about Queen Victoria's gownsfor which she was quite careful about the practicality and ofthe chose fabrics in fanciful and large patterns that emphasized her low height (remember that she did not reach 1.50 mt.), the way in which heir head was dressed and her way of life, her ideas about the family, culture, politics and religion dictated instead law making of her the paradigm of what we now call the Victorian era.

It was what became apparently named the 'QUEEN OF THE PEOPLE' the first to show herself cumbed in a so innovative way for the era, and immediately this hairdresser became fashionable for Ladies both of the old and of the new continent: left behind the artifice of Georgian hairstyles and the latest wigs that were still worn in the Regency's era, Victoria, a sublime hymn to simplicity, still very young, wore a hairstyle that we will see rediscovered in numerous portraits of the age belonging to ladys belonging to both the aristocracy and the moderate middle class, both to the nascent bourgeois class.

And this was the ideal for fashion hats that came from Paris for those years that marked the very dawn of the Victorian period


As we can see from the prints that appeared around the '40s of 1800 on one of the most sought after family magazines, always up to date with the latest details of French fashion, THE GODEY'S LADY'S BOOK, that we already had the chance to see together (HERE you may read the post about THE GODEY'S LADY'S BOOK AND MAGAZINE)


October 1840




August 1843



But let's see in detail how the long hair that was the pride of each lady of the time was combed; generally the hair was divided into the center with a line that stood on the top of the head; the two shapes that were obtained so laterally to the face were gently accompanied and pinned on the head, often with the aid of braids that represented the true novelty of this period,


The Amber Necklace, 1840, by Emanuel Gottlieb Leutze (1816-1868)



even though some Ladies still loved to keep curls and dense curlings


The Three Robinson Sisters, 1846, by George Theodore Berthon





Reventlow sisters, Countesses Hilda Sophie Charlotte in pink and Malvina Anny Louise in white by August Heinrich Georg Schiøtt 




which was the constant norm for framing the face in the hairstyles belonging to the Regency era (let's think of all the Period Dramas that brought Jane Austen's novels directly into our homes!), the important thing was to partially or totally cover the ears, considered little 'decorative ' to show; the rest of the hair, which remained on the back of the head, was tied in a broad and soft chignon, lower and more 'crushed' than those we know belonged to Regency's hairstyles and that would not fit the hats that were stylish just in those days!

The result was really delicate and impressive, though it took just a little time to get it, and framed one's face softening its features, even the hardest ones.


Victorian hairstyles, 1840s




Mary Matthews (1823–1890), by Madame de La Chere Marcel-Antoine Verdier (1817–1856)





Portrait de Mathilde Wesendonck, by Karl Ferdinand Sohn (German, 1805-1867)




What I wrote above represent the hairstyle featured in its essential lines, from which it could start the fantasy by adding one's artistic and creative touch, as shown by THE LADY'S MAGAZINE, which, in the Spring of 1837, suggested three new hairstyles which became immediately popular:


The style of coiffure of the first three heads is precisely the same, the first being ornamented with a bandeau of pearls — the second which gives the coiffure in front with flowers, and the third likewise with flowers, giving the back of the other two. The hair for this coiffure is brought in smooth bands, as low as possible, at the sides of the face, where after forming a kind of chignon at each side, it is turned up again (see plate); the back hair is tied very low, and formed into a single coque or bow, surrounded by braids and circles of hair, an ornamented arrow runs through the whole; three full blown white roses are placed at each side of the face.”



Preparing for court presentation, 1847




This kind of hairstyle represents a sort of forced step to reach those of the Middle - Victorian period (1848 - 1870), characterized by hair more tied and pointed on the head that will leave the ears uncovered, often ornamented with earrings, small or quite garish, and interlaces that will replace the chignon.


But coming back to our hairstyle, another strange alternative was represented by replacing the simple row with a double row that gave the possibility of obtaining a further lock of hair on the top of the head - giving thus the possibility to obtain more volume to the hairstyle - that went tied with the back ones.



Portrait of Frederika Arnold by Adolph von Menzel



Of this kind is the hairstyle that is shown in the video that I'm going to propose you, where we see at work the historic Ruth Goodman who has a specific preparation about the British Victorian period.




And I wonder if some of my readers with a particularly long and flourishing hair like to comb their hair in the warm heat; if so, don't forget to keep arab rubber, rhum and rose oil to prepare the most natural fixer we could ever think of today and which was used during the Victorian age to keep in the fold for hours the hair of the fashionable Ladies, even during the most excited balls.


In the hope to have entertained you in a nice way, I'm wishing you all my best,

before than taking my leave of you with the most sincere thanks !


See you soon 💕
















Non appena salì al trono, il 20 giugno del 1837, la Regina Victoria divenne immediatamente un modello da ammirare e da emulare in fatto di costume per tutto il popolo che era stata chiamata a governare.




- immagine 1 - Ritratto di una giovane Regina Victoria appena salita al trono






Non molto interessata alla moda per quanto concerneva l'abbigliamento, 
( clicca QUI se hai piacere di leggere il post sugli abiti della regina Victoriaper il quale ella era piuttosto attenta alla praticità scegliendo addirittura sovente tessuti in fantasie sgargianti e di grandi dimensioni che enfatizzavano la sua statura inferiore alla media ( ricordiamo che ella non raggiungeva 1.50 mt.), il modo in cui si ornava il capo ed il suo modo di vivere, le sue concezioni circa la famiglia, la cultura, la politica, la religione dettarono invece legge divenendo il paradigma di quello che noi oggi definiamo epoca vittoriana.

Fu quella che divenne, a ragion veduta, nominata la 'REGINA DEL POPOLO', la prima a mostrarsi acconciata in un modo per l'epoca innovativo, e che subito divenne moda per le Ladies sia del vecchio che del nuovo continente: superata l'artificiosità delle acconciature georgiane e deposte le ultime parrucche che ancora taluni indossavano in epoca Regency, Victoria, quale inno sublime alla semplicità, ancora giovanissima, fece propria una pettinatura che vedremo ripetersi con ridondanza in numerosi ritratti dell'epoca appartenenti sia all'aristocrazia che alla classe medio agiata, sia alla nascente classe borghese.



Ed era questa la pettinatura ideale per i capellini che la moda proveniente da Parigi proponeva per quegli anni che segnarono gli albori del periodo vittoriano





- immagine 2 - Cappellini alla moda parigina risalenti al primo periodo vittoriano



come possiamo evincere anche da quanto presentavano le stampe che apparivano intorno agli anni '40 del 1800 su una delle più ricercate riviste per la famiglia, sempre al passo con i tempi circa gli ultimi dettagli della moda francese, il THE GODEY'S LADY'S BOOK che già tempo fa abbiamo avuto occasione di vedere insieme (clicca QUI se hai piacere di leggere il post che tratta del Godey's Lady's Book and Magazine)





- immagine 3 e 4 - Stampe tratte dal Godey's Lady's Book and Magazine




Ma vediamo nel dettaglio come andavano pettinate le lunghe chiome che costituivano l'orgoglio di ogni Lady del tempo: generalmente i capelli andavano divisi nel centro con una riga che si fermava sulla sommità del capo; le due ciocche che si ottenevano così lateralmente al viso venivano dolcemente accompagnate ed appuntate sul capo, spesso con l'ausilio di trecce che rappresentano la vera novità di questo periodo,




- immagine 5 - The Amber Necklace, 1840, by Emanuel Gottlieb Leutze (1816-1868)




anche se talune Ladies amano conservare i boccoli e le fitte arricciature 



- immagine 6 - The Three Robinson Sisters, 1846, by George Theodore Berthon 

- immagine 7 - Reventlow sisters, Countesses Hilda Sophie Charlotte in pink and Malvina Anny Louise in white by August Heinrich Georg Schiøtt 





che erano la norma costante con cui incorniciare il viso nelle acconciature Regency
(pensiamo a tutti i Period Drama che hanno portato i romanzi di Jane Austen direttamente nelle nostre case !), l'importante era coprire parzialmente o totalmente le orecchie, considerate poco 'decorative' da mostrare; il resto della capigliatura, che rimaneva sul retro del capo, veniva legata in un ampio e morbido chignon, più basso e più 'schiacciato' di quello che conosciamo appartenere alle acconciature Regency  e che mal si adatterebbe ai cappellini che erano in auge al tempo !

Il risultato era davvero delicato e di grande effetto, nonostante richiedesse poco tempo per essere ottenuto, ed incorniciava il viso addolcendone i lineamenti, persino quelli più duri.



- immagine 8 - Victorian hairstyles, 1840s

- immagine 9 - Mary Matthews (1823–1890), by Madame de La Chere Marcel-Antoine Verdier (1817–1856)


- immagine 10 - Portrait de Mathilde Wesendonck, by Karl Ferdinand Sohn (German, 1805-1867)





Quanto suddetto rappresentava questa acconciature nelle sue linee essenziali, da cui poteva partire la fantasia aggiungendo il suo tocco artistico e creativo, come ci dimostra il THE LADY'S MAGAZINE che, nella primavera del 1837, propone tre nuove acconciature divenute immediatamente popolari:




- immagine 11




"Lo stile di coiffure delle prime tre teste è esattamente lo stesso: la prima è ornata con un bandeau di perle, la seconda orna l'acconciatura davanti con fiori e la terza sempre con fiori, dà la schiena alle altre due. I capelli per questa coiffure vengono portati in bande lisce, tenute più basse possibile, ai lati del viso, dove dopo aver formato una specie di chignon da ogni lato, sale nuovamente (vedi  stampa); i capelli posteriormente sono legati molto bassi e formati in un unico coque o arco, circondati da trecce e ciocche di capelli disposte a cerchio, una freccia ornamentale lo attraversa tutto; tre rose bianche in piena fioritura sono disposte ai lati del viso".




- immagine 12 - Preparing for court presentation, 1847



Questo tipo di acconciatura rappresenta una sorta di passaggio obbligato per giungere a quelle del periodo medio - vittoriano (1848 - 1870 ), caratterizzate da ciocche legate ed appuntate più tirate sul capo che lasceranno le orecchie scoperte, spesso ornate con orecchini, ed intrecci che prenderanno il posto dello chignon.



- immagine 13 -



Ma tornando alla nostra acconciatura, un'altra estrosa alternativa era rappresentata dal sostituire alla riga semplice una doppia riga che dava la possibilità di ricavare un'ulteriore ciocca di capelli sulla sommità del capo anche anteriormente - il che dava la possibilità di conferire più volume all'acconciatura - che andava ad accompagnarsi con quella posteriore; 




- immagine 14 - Portrait of Frederika Arnold by Adolph von Menzel



di questo tipo è la pettinatura che ci viene mostrata nel video che sto per proporvi in cui vediamo all'opera la storica Ruth Goodman che vanta una preparazione specifica e di tutto rispetto proprio sul periodo vittoriano britannico.



VIDEO




E chissà che qualcuna delle mie lettrici con la capigliatura particolarmente lunga e fiorente gradisca, per l'incipiente caldo, acconciarsi i capelli in cotal modo ... se così fosse non dimenticate di munirvi di gomma arabicarhum e olio di rosa per preparare il fissatore più naturale che mai potremmo pensare oggi e che era in auge al tempo per tenere in piega per ore, anche durante i balli più concitati, le chiome delle Ladies alla moda.


Spero con ciò di avervi intrattenute in modo piacevole ed augurandovi ogni bene,
vi lascio con il mio più sentito ringraziamento


a presto 💕









LINKING WITH:


50 commenti:

  1. Gorgeous costumes, Daniela! I love the Victorian era! Thank you so much for sharing, dear friend. I hope you have a wonder filled weekend!

    RispondiElimina
    Risposte
    1. @ Linda
      wishing you the same, my cherished friend,
      I'm sending blessings across the many miles,
      always overjoyed by having you here
      and reading your so lovely words of appreciation ಌ•❤•ಌ

      Elimina
  2. Some beautiful clothing and gowns, but they look so uncomfortable. It was a different time and the women of means dressed the part. Love this post.

    Have a fabulous day and weekend, Dany. ♥♥♥

    RispondiElimina
    Risposte
    1. @ Sandee
      I'm sincerely glad to read that you loved it, darling friend !

      Wishing you a most beautiful end of your week,
      I'm sending hugs and my dearest love to you ✿⊱╮

      Elimina
  3. Lovely hairstyles! Seldom do i have time to do more than braid my hair to keep it out of my way.

    RispondiElimina
    Risposte
    1. @ messymimi
      I so love braids and expecially in Summer I use to I make myself braids :) !!!

      Praying your weekend is a blessed ones, Dearie,
      I'm sending all my love to you ❥

      Elimina
  4. Hello, what a great post. The hats, dresses and hairstyles are lovely. I enjoyed the images, I like the one with the child with the necklace. Thanks for sharing. Have a happy day and weekend!

    RispondiElimina
    Risposte
    1. @ eileeninmd
      dear, dearest friend, the image you enjoy is the one I love most, there's so much tenderness in it !

      Heartily thanking you for being so supportive,
      I'm sending blessings on the remiander of your weekend,
      may it be filled with joy and wonder, Sweetie ♡ஐ♡

      Elimina
  5. Come sempre molto interessante! Un abbraccio 🤗 💓

    RispondiElimina
    Risposte
    1. @ WOODY
      carissima, contraccambio con tutto il cuore il tuo abbraccio,
      ringraziandoti come sempre per la tua deliziosa e preziosa presenza ❀≼♥≽❀

      Elimina
  6. Hello dear Dany, thank you for your sweet visit, how nice to hear from you again! You have a beautiful post here. As a young girl I was intrigued by the different hairstyles throughout history. But I must say I'm very happy we don't have to do these daily anymore these days, lol :) Sending you big hugs and wishing you a beautiful day, xx

    RispondiElimina
    Risposte
    1. @ Wen Green
      what a joy means to me having you here, darling friend, I thought you weren't blogging anyomore, and I felt sad thinking so, truly !

      I felt your hugs and hope you'll feel mine,
      I'm thinking of you with all my love ⊰♥⊱*Ƹ̴Ӂ̴Ʒ*⊰♥⊱

      Elimina
  7. Dear Dany,
    My mom did her high school research paper on hairstyles throughout various periods and I was always intrigued, so I loved this post and did watch the video. Since I do not have a thick head of hair, I always wondered what I would have done with my hair in another period in time that seemed to relish long hair and hairstyles. (I have to wear mine short) I also love the fashion, such elegance in their gowns.

    So interesting Dany, thank you for your interesting posts. I always, always learn something that I didn't know before....sending love,
    Linda

    RispondiElimina
    Risposte
    1. @Linda
      I wonder how interesting your mother's researches were !

      Well, today are fashionable every kind of hairstyle, so even if you don't have a thick head of hair you're not the unique in the world, believe me, and you're not penalized, indeed, you don't suffer too much heat during the Summer :)

      Thanking you wholeheartedly for you so beautiful words of appreciation touching my heart in the deep,
      I'm sending blessings on your Sunday
      may it be filled with love and joy ♡❤♡

      Elimina
  8. I loved this post Most of the hairstyles are so elaborate, whether curls or braids. The Pet July 1865 reminds me of a style I might have seen with Gone With the Wind. I wondered how they got the braids fixed just so. Now I see they used a utensil. Fascinating! xo

    RispondiElimina
    Risposte
    1. @ A Joyful Cottage
      I also found myself thinking about a hairstyle I saw in Gone With the Wind watching at that image, and as you could see, there was such an utensil to make that kind of braids and to fix them, Victorians were truly ingenious !

      I thank you from the bottom of my heart for being here and for posting your words of enjoyment, Dearest Nancy !

      Sending my dearest love to you,
      with sincere gratitude ⊰✽*ღ*✽⊱

      Elimina
  9. Really lovely photos! I like all the clothes and hair styles. Have a great weekend. cheers

    RispondiElimina
    Risposte
    1. @ Nora
      I welcome you with a big hug,
      thanks most sincerely for your words of appreciation,
      I'm glad to read that you enjoyed it !

      Sending blessings on the remainder of your weekend,
      thanking you once again ✿⊱╮

      Elimina
  10. Fantastico anche questo tuo post, cara Daniela.
    Un grande abbraccio e buona domenica
    Susanna

    RispondiElimina
    Risposte
    1. @ Susanna
      ti ringrazio dal profondo del cuore, mia cara, carissima amica, averti qui è sempre una gioia immensa !

      Con la più sincera gratitudine contraccambio il tuo abbraccio per augurarti una splendida serata ❥

      Elimina
  11. il mondo vittoriano che fascino..non smetterà mai di far seognare intere generazioni di donne..
    bellissimo post cara dany
    un abbraccio
    daniela

    RispondiElimina
    Risposte
    1. @ daniela
      un grazie grande grande per la tua visita, le tue dolci parole non mancano mai di allietare la mia giornata !!!

      Contraccambio il tuo abbraccio con tutto il cuore per augurarti una serena giornata, carissima amica,
      ed aggiungo un bacione ༺♡❀♡༻

      Elimina
  12. Olá Daniela:
    vir aqui é sempre um passeio ao passado !!
    conhecendo melhor como eram os costumes de um tempo que se foi !!
    muito lindo seu post, sempre interessante.
    grande abraço querida e boa semana !!
    muita paz e saúde !!
    :o)

    RispondiElimina
    Risposte
    1. @ Kr.Eliane
      olà mui querida amiga
      seja sempre um prazer de ler seus comentários,
      trazer aqui a alegria de um raio de sol !

      Muito obrigada pela carinhosa visita !!!
      Boa semana e tudo de bom ❥

      Elimina
  13. I enjoyed learning about the hair.
    I like the bonnets too.
    I noticed that the baby is holding amber teething beads. Even today Baltic amber beads help take away the pain of baby teeth as they come in.
    Nice to see it in the picture.
    Hugs across the sea dear friend.

    RispondiElimina
    Risposte
    1. @ annie
      adorable friend, thank you for your so interesting note, it makes your comment even more precious to me !

      In the hope you're having a great week so far,
      I'm sending blessings of joy across the Ocean *•♥♥•*

      Elimina
  14. What a fun treat to look back at fashions from an earlier time! :)

    RispondiElimina
    Risposte
    1. @ Gentle Joy
      I'm sincerely glad to read your words of apprecaition and enjoyment, thank you dear friend of mine !

      Wishing you a joy-filled day ಌ•❤•ಌ

      Elimina
  15. Risposte
    1. @ Regine Karpel
      I wish the same to you Dearie !

      ✿•• MUCH LOVE ••✿

      Elimina
  16. I was thinking with their hair over their ears they wouldn't need to wear earrings but I see they still did :) I think back in that time I would have liked the curly hair on the side more than the braids, I wonder which took longer to do... That is an interesting combo of ingredients to put on the hair to hold it all together. I tend to put my hair up quite a bit in the summer and I just put it up while it is still damp and that seems to hold things better than if I dry it all the way. Don't know if that is bad for my hair or not. Another intersting post Dany, hope you are having a wonderful start to your week!

    RispondiElimina
    Risposte
    1. @ Conniecrafter
      Derest One, your lovely comments are like bright rays of cheerful sunshine and I love them so, thank you !
      Hugs !

      I pray your week is a blessed one ♡❤♡

      Elimina
  17. Oh, those beautiful hats. Truly works of art.
    Amalia
    xo

    RispondiElimina
    Risposte
    1. @ Amalia
      I also fell in love with them as soon as I saw them, you said it, they're works of art !

      I'm looking forward to your comments, sweet friend, they really lift my spirits, thanks most sincerely !

      Wishing you a wonderful remainder of your week,
      may it be filled with love and smiles ∗⊱༺♡❀♡༻⊰∗

      Elimina
  18. I always love visiting you, Dany, to read all about the fashion of bygone eras. So many different hairstyles. It must have taken an inordinate amount of time to get ready for each new day. I am rather partial to those pretty hats.

    RispondiElimina
    Risposte
    1. @ Kim
      precious friend of mine, truth is, we all love them :) !

      I thank you from the bottom of my heart, Dearie, to have you here is always such a blessing to my day !

      In the hope you're having the best of weeks,
      I'm sending hugs and ever much love to you,
      always thinking of you with so much gratitude ♥♡♥

      Elimina
  19. Dearest Dany, the bonnets! The gowns! This post just sings to me. It conjures up images from my favourite book, Little Women, and is just what I needed to make me smile on a chilly Winters day. Sending love, Mimi xxx

    RispondiElimina
    Risposte
    1. @ Mimi
      Dearest One, your words are always so beautiful and never fail to bless both my heart and my day, I thank you wholeheartedly !

      Hope you're having a great week so far,
      I'm sending my dearest love to you,
      with the deepest gratitude ever, sweet friend ⊰✽*Ƹ̴Ӂ̴Ʒ*✽⊱

      Elimina
  20. This was such a fun post---! I enjoyed the BBC posts and got lost in the pharmacy---which followed the hair. We don't get all of the BBC productions and the Victorian town is fascinating. So loved all the beautiful art and the hair, dresses. Thank you for taking the time to put this together, Sandi

    RispondiElimina
    Risposte
    1. @ Sandi
      it's always such a delight to welcome you here, darling friend, thank you for your so kind and nice words of appreciation, they truly feed my passion and fill my heart !

      Wishing you a most lovely Summer
      sending hugs, love and smiles to you ✿⋰⋱✿

      Elimina
  21. What a lovely post about this woman. What a sad ending though. It was a different time, yet still that mob mentality that is never good.

    Have a fabulous day, my friend. ♥♥♥

    RispondiElimina
    Risposte
    1. @ Sandee
      probably you're thinking of Marie Antoinette, protagonist of ~ My little old world ~ last post ... you're right, sweet friend, the mob mentality could still today be a threat, alas!

      Sending blessings of joy on the remainder of your week, thanking you so much for your faithfuklness and support ❥

      Elimina
  22. That was definitely an interesting time in history!

    RispondiElimina
    Risposte
    1. @ bettyl-NZ
      you're always so heartily welcome, thanks most sincerely for your so nice and kind words, dear friend !

      Wishing you a joy-filled day •♥•♥•♥•

      Elimina
  23. One of the things I remember most about the beautiful BBC series "Victoria" was how she wanted to modernize her hair and often (at least in the program) wore that look early on with the two small braids from the center part. It's fascinating, this look back at styles.

    I hope you have a most lovely weekend, Dany!

    RispondiElimina
    Risposte
    1. @ Jeanie
      oh, I so love your comments, you cannot even imagine the joy you bring to my heart with your words of appreciation, Dearie, blessed be !

      May your weekend ahead too be lovely,
      filled with love and smiles ༺♡❀♡༻

      Elimina
  24. Oh my goodness, Dany, the hair and the gowns, and the hats!!!
    Can you even begin to imagine how ling it must have taken to get their hair to look so beautiful. Most of the time, I barely have time to blow dry mine! :-)
    I truly so enjoy visiting you here, sweet friend.
    Thank you, and have a wonderful weekend.
    Sending you hugs from across the ocean.
    xo.

    RispondiElimina
    Risposte
    1. @ Lisa
      ... and I heartily love to welcome you here, precious friend, you're a bright ray of cheerful sun, God bless !

      With utmost gratitude for your comments which always make my day,
      I'm sending my dearest love to you ಌ•❤•ಌ

      Elimina
  25. How fun to learn about the fashion of those days--love those bonnets! Thank you for sharing @Vintage Charm!

    RispondiElimina
    Risposte
    1. @ My thrift store addiction
      I'm so, so glad you loved it !

      Sending blessings on this new week of yours,
      with sincere thankfulness, dearest Cecilia ✿⊱╮

      Elimina

I WHOLEHEARTEDLY THANK YOU FOR YOUR THOUGHTS AND WORDS, SO PRECIOUS TO ME.