martedì 22 agosto 2017

HISTORY OF FASHION ~ XVIIIth cent. fashionable caps (and straw hats).



Women's fashion has always wanted that the head had to be covered:
in accordance with the different styles, contexts and ages, never the hair of a lady, at least until the contemporary era, had to be shown in its entirety, whether it was for deference, elegance, or affectation ... and what better ultimate touch to a perfect Lady's toilet could exist if not a delicate cap made of the softest fabric and ornate with impalpable laces ?



Coming back to the end of the XVIIIth century, between 1770-1780 and 1800, the caps became very fashionable, made of linen or organza, often decorated with a lace-embroidered trim, which made them even more graceful, or with ribbons that made them more in theme with the colors and style of the dress; the Ladies of the time, especially those who belonged to the most modest social classes, used to wear them for all kinds of domestic tasks:




indispensable accessory, almost as if it were an apron, the cap, which gave the hostess a look of graceful elegance and made the feminine image more tidy and clean, was also used to hold the hair during the nighttime rest and then it was named DORMEUSE CAP.



But whatever it was the social class which a Lady belonged to, she never had to come out without first covering her head with her own cap, and in that case they were chosen those a little bit more elaborate and sophisticated, and it was in Summer that the 'ensamble' with the straw hats made them really delicious and irresistible: they were in vogue at the time the BERGERE STRAW HATS,


wide-brimmed straw hats virtually flat, or nearly, that were resting on the top of the head over the cap and sometimes tied under the chin or behind the 'full' head of the cap, and this 'marriage', which was really guessed, was able to grace the of every Lady dressing them; it was as if the cap had the task of picking up the hair and the straw hat to give the cap its most appropriate finishing touch.





They were quite simple to make, every housewife had the opportunity to use the appropriate paper models, and it was a shame that the fabric lost its turgor already during the very first wash and so, once it had fallen, the cap should be readily replaced with a new one.


The most well-to-do Ladies went to fashionable milliners which were far able to sew them but for a mere cap it was enough the mastery with the needle of a dressmaker, the one who sew the suit and could then create the most guessed ensemble perhaps with the same decorations.

What do you say, let's take a leap back in time and let's try one of them, maybe with one of those so lovely BERGERE STRAW HAT decorated with ribbons and flowers?

The season is just the most suitable ...!




I thank you all from the bottom of my heart for the enthusiasm 
which you always follow me with,
your comments fill my heart with such a joy!
And in the hope that I've been dealing with a subject 
that has entertained you with delight,
I wish you all my best,


see you soon ðŸ’•








P.S. I have to admit that being my month of August so very busy, I cannot afford the time for the web, to answer your comments, to visit your so lovely blogs, and therefore I prefer to take a short break and come back in September, I really can't manage and I do prefer not to bere instead of being like a phantom, dearest friend of mine, thank you once again !








Da sempre la moda femminile vuole che il capo sia coperto: 
in accordo con i diversi stili, contesti ed epoche, mai la capigliatura di una signora, almeno fino all'epoca contemporanea, si doveva mostrare nella sua interezza, sia che fosse per deferenza, per eleganza, o per vezzo ... e quale miglior tocco finale alla toilette di una perfetta Lady poteva esistere se non una delicata cuffia fatta del più morbido tessuto ed ornata di impalpabili pizzi ?



- immagine 1

- immagine 2



Tornando indietro alla fine del XVIII° secolo, ossia tra il 1770 -1780 ed il 1800, le cuffie divennero di gran moda, confezionate in lino o in organza, spesso decorate con un bordo in pizzo ricamato a mano, che le ingentiliva ulteriormente, o con nastri che le rendevano più in accordo con i colori e lo stile dell'abito; le Ladies del tempo, soprattutto coloro che appartenevano alle classi sociali più modeste, le usavano per svolgere ogni tipo di mansione domestica:



- immagine 3

- immagine 4

- immagine 5



accessorio irrinunciabile, quasi come poteva essere il grembiule, la cuffia, che conferiva alla padrona di casa un aspetto di graziosa eleganza e rendeva l'immagine femminile più ordinata e pulita, era altressì utilizzata per tenere in ordine i capelli durante il riposo notturno, ed allora prendeva il nome di DORMEUSE CAP.



- immagine 6



Ma qualsiasi fosse la classe sociale di appartenenza, una Lady non usciva senza aver prima coperto il capo con la propria cuffia, ed in questo caso venivano scelte quelle un po' più elaborate e sofisticate, ed era in estate che l'abbinamento con il cappello di paglia le rendeva davvero deliziose ed irresistibili: erano in auge al tempo i cosìddetti 
BERGERE STRAW HATS,



- immagine 7


cappellini di paglia a falde larghe praticamente piatti, o quasi, che venivano appoggiati sulla sommità del capo sopra la cuffia e legati talvolta sotto il mento oppure dietro alla parte 'piena' della cuffia e tale connubio, davvero indovinato, era in grado di aggraziare il volto di ogni Lady che li vestisse; era come se alla cuffia spettasse il compito di raccogliere la chioma e al cappello di paglia quello di conferire alla cuffia la propria più adeguata rifinitura e di personalizzare 'la mise'.



- immagine 8

- immagine 9

- immagine 10

- immagine 11



Esse erano piuttosto semplici da confezionare, ogni massaia del tempo ne aveva la possibilità ricorrendo agli appropriati modelli in carta, peccato che il tessuto perdesse turgore già durante i primissimi lavaggi e quindi, una volta afflosciatasi, la cuffia dovesse essere prontamente sostituita con una nuova.



- immagine 12



Le Ladies più benestanti si recavano dalle modiste di fiducia per farsele confezionare, ma per una semplice cuffia era sufficiente la maestria con l'ago di una sarta, la stessa che confezionava l'abito e che poteva quindi creare 'l'ensemble' più indovinato magari con le sue stesse decorazioni.

Che dite, facciamo un salto indietro nel tempo e ne proviamo una anche noi, magari con uno BERGERE STRAW HAT decorato con nastri e fiori ?

La stagione è proprio la più adatta ... !






Vi ringrazio con tutto il cuore per l'entusiasmo con cui sempre mi seguite,
i vostri commenti colmano il mio cuore di una tale gioia !
E nella speranza di aver trattato un argomento che vi abbia intrattenuti con diletto,
vi auguro ogni bene,


a presto ðŸ’•








P.S. Devo ammettere che essendo il mio mese di agosto così tanto ricco di impegni, a stento riesco a concedermi il tempo per il web, per rispondere ai vostri commenti, per farvi vista e perciò preferisco prendermi una breve sosta dandovi appuntamento a settembre, grazie ancora.







LINKING WITH:

TUESDAY WITH A TWIST

58 commenti:

  1. All those sweet little lace numbers are so pretty. How fashions change with each generation. I don't know how I would fare with the wearing of one of those little lace concoctions daily...BUT...I do love the straw hats. Those I could happily wear each day whilst out and about in the sunshine.

    RispondiElimina
    Risposte
    1. @ Kim
      my Dearest !
      I also love straw hats and our so hard sun here during these days make me think about these BERGERE STRAW HATS which are so very lovely to me too ... I also would really love to wear one of them to protect myself when I work outside !

      Wishing you much gladness and love
      for the remainder of your week,
      I'm sending blessings across the many miles ✿⊱╮

      Elimina
  2. Daniela:
    acho o uso do chapéu , uma necessidade.
    não sei porque não é mais importante e as pessoas não usam mais.

    moro num país onde grande parte é tropical, (onde moro é subtropical), e a incidência de raios solares é muito grande. Nada mais sensato que usar chapéu, mas ninguém usa.
    acho que isso é bom para a indústria de protetor solar.
    são caros e todo mundo usa, o lucro é imenso.
    tenho meus chapéus de palha e uso. Sou conhecida como a mulher do chapéu.
    muito lindo seu post, imagens muito belas.
    grande abraço e boa semana.
    :o)

    RispondiElimina
    Risposte
    1. @ Kr. Eliane
      sempre sinto tanta alegria, obrigada pela visita!
      Eu também uso chapéus de palha durante a temporada mais quente, eles me protegem do sol, eu não amo tanto na minha cabeça durante o período mais quente do verão!

      Desejando-lhe um final muito agradável da sua semana,
      Estou enviando bênçãos através das muitas milhas ❥

      Elimina
  3. While the straw hats would not last long in my line of work, i can see how having a cap could keep my hair out of the way and tidier.

    RispondiElimina
    Risposte
    1. @ messymimi
      good morning Darling and thank you for being here !
      Well, actually I so love them both even if they're out of fashion ... I look at this ensemble with a little bit of melancholy !

      With utmost gratitude,
      I'm sending hugs & love to you,
      may your Saturday be filled with joy and smiles ༺♡❀♡༻

      Elimina
  4. Hello, Dany! Wonderful post on the fashions and hats from centuries ago. The caps and straw hats are pretty. I would probably enjoy a straw hat to protect my head from the sun. I hope you enjoy your break. Happy Tuesday, enjoy your day!

    RispondiElimina
    Risposte
    1. @ eileeninmd
      I'm so grateful to you, Lovely Lady, your words of enjoyment bless this morning of mine !

      Sending hugs and ever much love on your weekend,
      thinking of you ⊰✽*✽⊱

      Elimina
  5. Come commentare questo splendido post, cara Daniela?
    Sospiro, riguardo le immagini e godo di questi momenti di serenità che mi donano i tuoi approfondimenti e la dolce musica in sottofondo.
    Grazie, a presto Susanna

    RispondiElimina
    Risposte
    1. @ Susanna
      come sempre è una tale delizia leggere i tuoi commenti, grazie di cuore per la tua dolcezza e la tua grazia !

      Ti abbraccio forte forte,
      carissima amica,
      augurandoti un sereno weekend d'inizio autunno ♥∗✿*✿∗♥

      Elimina
  6. The hats are all beautiful, dear Daniela! Thank you so much for sharing, my cherished friend.

    RispondiElimina
    Risposte
    1. @ Linda
      it is I who thank you for being so special and so important to me, adorable friend of mine !

      ஜ Be blessed ஜ

      Elimina
  7. I'm so glad I didn't have to wear these. They are pretty, but I'm just not a hat person. Beautiful shots.

    Have a fabulous day, Daniela. ♥♥♥

    RispondiElimina
    Risposte
    1. @ Sandee
      even if you say you're not a hat person, I'm so glad you've enjoyed this post of mine, Dearie !

      Sending blessings on your way,
      with utmost gratitude ❀≼♥≽❀

      Elimina
  8. affascinanti i copricapo di un tempo, un po ritornano in voga anche ai nostri giorni, magari nelle occasioni più speciali..
    bello questo viaggio nei costumi che cara dany hai saputo proporci anche stavolta.
    t auguro una felice serata di fine estate
    daniela

    RispondiElimina
    Risposte
    1. @ daniela
      le tue parole di apprezzamento sono talmente importanti per me, mia dolce, grazie, grazie di vero cuore !!!

      Che il tuo weekend sia lieto
      e colmo di piccole cose per cui gioire •♥•♥•♥•

      Elimina
  9. Lovely hats, beautiful photos, like a trip in time! Nice to find you! Sotiria

    RispondiElimina
    Risposte
    1. @ Sotiria
      you're so heartily welcome, thank you for your so beautiful words about this post of mine !

      Wishing you all my best,
      with utmost gratitude
      (I'm coming and visit you as soon as I can) ಌ•❤•à²Œ

      Elimina
  10. Oh sweet friend, what a beautiful post. The hats are simply lovely and oh, the lace! Such sweet and feminine things {{smiles}}

    Thinking of you, dear one. Love and hugs to you!

    RispondiElimina
    Risposte
    1. @ Stephanie
      Dearest friend of mine, how much I've been missing you during my absence !
      I've been thinking of you so, so much !

      Thanking you wholeheartedly for your words both of amusement and appreciation,
      I'm sending blessings of joy on your way ✿⊱╮

      Elimina
  11. It is really interesting to me that even though they were wearing a straw hat they also had to still wear the caps...some of them are so pretty with the laces and all, I would need many on hand, I get a bit warm when wearing hats :)
    Hope things slow down for you soon and that you enjoy the last few weeks of summer!

    RispondiElimina
    Risposte
    1. @ Conniecrafter
      things are going to slow down just in these days, so I'm going to come back very soon to my everyday life, my blog, you all very soon, thank you for your understanding, wonderful friend !

      So very pleased by your comment expressing appreciation for this topic,
      I'm sending hugs and ever much love to you,
      wishing you a most lovely end of your week ღ❀ღ

      Elimina
  12. All of these are so very beautiful, Dany.
    If it were me, it would be a pleasure to cover my head with one of these, and I think they would be wonderful to make also.
    Happy day to you, sweet friend.
    Sending you hugs from across the ocean.
    xo.

    RispondiElimina
    Risposte
    1. @ Lisa Gordon
      Precious Friend, I felt your hugs and hope you'll feel mine !

      Trusting you a had a most lovely week,
      I'm wishing you a beautiful Saturday and Sunday ahead,
      with utmost gratitude ♡❤♡

      Elimina
  13. I know I would love to live in a time where every lady tied her back and wore a cap of some sort. It would sure help with those days when my hair looks less than perfect, which is most days! So very nice to visit after a while of being away. I hope you are well and that you are enjoying writing your book.
    Sending Love,
    Andrea

    RispondiElimina
    Risposte
    1. @ Andrea
      lovely friend of mine,
      it's always such a delight to welcome you here and read your so beautiful words !

      May your weekend be as Beauty-ful as you ⊰✽*✽⊱

      Elimina
  14. Beautiful and interesting post, Daniela. I love the great vintage and romantic photos. Kisses, my friend.

    RispondiElimina
    Risposte
    1. @ Mia
      I'm sincerely grateful to you, adorable friend, your words of appreciation bless this evening of mine !

      Hope you're enjoying a lovely Saturday,
      I'm wishing you a joy-and-wonder-filled Sunday ahead ♥♡♥

      Elimina
  15. Dany, come sempre quando passo da te imparo qualcosa di nuovo!!
    Grazie mille per questo bel post!
    Ti auguro una piacevole serata.
    Bacio

    RispondiElimina
    Risposte
    1. @ Manu
      grazie a te, mia cara, è sempre una tale gioia per me averti qui e leggere ciò che lasci scritto, il tuo entusiasmo alimenta il mio, credimi !

      Ti abbraccio con tutto il cuore
      augurandoti un piacevole weekend di inizio autunno ❥

      Elimina
  16. Dearest Dani, yet another sublime post from you. The little Dormeuse Caps were indeed a pretty item. As for straw hats, well we wear them often in Summer here. So ladylike frippery is alive and well in my part of the world! Love, Mimi xxx

    RispondiElimina
    Risposte
    1. @ Mimi
      I'm reading with much joy that in your part of the word something of this so ancient fashion is still alive, this allows you to wear your old-fashioned hats if you want, oh, how lovely, my Beautiful Lady !

      Wishing you a most beautiful end of your week,
      sending my dearest love to you ♥∗✿≫✿≪✿∗♥

      Elimina
  17. What a lovely post. Beautiful pictures and information, it is interesting that caps and hats were not just fashion, but a culture statement, as well as expressing the station of the lady. Lovely, thank you, Sandi

    RispondiElimina
    Risposte
    1. @ Sandy
      your lovely comments are light bright rays of cheerful sunshine, thank you !

      Praying your weekend is a blessed one,
      I'm sending hugs and love to you ❀≼♥≽❀

      Elimina
  18. I loved this very much! I always like to learn about the hats of those times. So pretty. I wish we did things like this today.

    RispondiElimina
    Risposte
    1. @ Annie
      I'm sincerely glad to read your words of enjoyment and, believe me, I also would love that a revival of those times were possible, darling friend of mine !

      Wishing you a most lovely Sunday,
      may it be blessed with joy and sweetness ಌ•❤•à²Œ

      Elimina
  19. Hello dear Dani,

    This is such a pretty post. I love all the pretty hats.. Feminine with lots of functionality. These were such different times. Civility, manners and culture were the norm.

    Thank you for sharing such beauty with us.

    Hugs,

    Janet
    rosemary-thyme.blogspot.com

    RispondiElimina
    Risposte
    1. @ Janet
      it is I who thank you, sweetest friend, thank you for gracing my blog today both with your presence here and with your so lovely words !

      Sending blessings on your Sunday
      and on your new week ahead,
      with utmost thankfulness,
      it's always such a delight to welcome you ღ❀ღ

      Elimina
  20. Bellissimo Post, grazie Daniela!
    Nives

    RispondiElimina
    Risposte
    1. @ Nives
      grazie a te carissima, grazie per aver trovato il tempo di farmi visita, grazie per le tue parole di apprezzamento, grazie per il tuo buon cuore.

      Ti abbraccio forte augurandoti una splendida domenica d'inizio autunno,
      sempre più grata per l'amicizia che ci unisce *•♥♥•*

      Elimina
  21. I love hats and find them intriguing and beautiful but don't seem to be able to wear them all that well myself. Loved your walk through the head coverings of various times.

    I understand what you mean about a frantic or busy time of year. I have a feeling you might be too busy to truly ENJOY your break but I hope you can relax a bit! We'll look forward to your wonderful posts whenever they appear!

    RispondiElimina
    Risposte
    1. @ Jeanie
      you're always so so kind, Dearie !
      Your feeling was true, I didn't enjoy this break at all, for sure I needed to relax myself, but I do it when I'm here with you, that's what I couldn't allow myself during the end of this Summer, far too busy ... really !

      Thanking you wholeheartedly for your understanding,
      I'm sending my dearest love to you ✿*✿

      Elimina
  22. I feel the same way about visiting and commenting, so then I put off blogging. Lovely post as always. My daughter loves hats and bought a stack of wool berets in Paris. xoxo Su

    RispondiElimina
    Risposte
    1. @ Su
      oh, lovely lady, I wonder how lovely the goodies your daughter purchased in Paris are !

      Thanking you for being so sympathetic,
      I'm sending blessings of joy on your way,
      with much gratitude ♡❤♡

      Elimina
  23. i love hats and head coverings and enjoyed reading this history. i hope you are well. sending love. xo

    RispondiElimina
    Risposte
    1. @ Michele
      I'm always delighted to welcome you here, your so beautiful words always bless my heart, Dearie !
      Yes, I'm fine, and hope the same to you, my break was due to work, fortunately, not to health reasons, but I'm going to come back, sooner than you think ;) !

      Thanking you from the bottom of my heart,
      I'm sending love, hugs and smiles to you ஜ♥♡♥ஜ

      Elimina
  24. Dear Dany, it is the same for all bloggers & I apologise for my long absence but it has been wonderful to read this post & learn about the caps & enjoy the beautiful photos of the dresses back then.
    So lovely!
    Sending lots of hugs!

    RispondiElimina
    Risposte
    1. @ Christine
      it is I who apologize for my long break and absence, it's always such a hard decision to me to leave the web and you all, but when I'm so overwhelmed by work, I cannot do otherwise, alas !

      Wishing you a most lovely Sunday,
      I'm sending blessings across the many miles ⊰✽*✽⊱

      Elimina
  25. Semplicemente delizioso!
    Grazie cara Daniela e buon Autunno pieno di gioie!
    Un caro abbraccio dalla tua amica Luci@

    RispondiElimina
    Risposte
    1. @ Luci@
      mia cara, dolce, splendida amica, grazie dal profondo del cuore, averti qui è già uno splendido dono per me !

      Che la tua domenica sia prodiga di serenità,
      ti abbraccio sinceramente con affetto e stima ༺♡❀♡༻

      Elimina
  26. Dearest Dany, I have missed your beautiful graceful posts so much and this was just what I needed today. This post is just the touch of beauty I needed on this day. It was wonderful to read about how important it was for a lady to cover her head. It truly added to a women's beauty, I believe. I loved every beautiful picture!!!
    Thank you so much for always bringing so much joy into my life!
    I'm now off to read your beautiful posts I've missed in my absence.
    sending hugs...

    RispondiElimina
    Risposte
    1. @ June
      darling, precious friend of mine, I don't know if you missed so much, I also was absent for more than a month, I had to leave the blog and you all, alas, for work reasons, I really couldn't be everywhere !
      Anyway, as always, I'm overjoyed by your presence here and to read that this post of mine filled your heart, well, it's truly a blessing to mine, believe me !

      Sending all my love to you,
      always thinking of you with utmost gratitude,
      you mean so much to me, Sweetie ❥

      Elimina
  27. Hi Dany,
    I always enjoy your posts ... I learn something! I love hats, all kinds of hats and often wonder why they don't look good on me! Perhaps I should try one of these earlier styles!

    RispondiElimina
    Risposte
    1. @ Snap
      I think that are just few those ladies who add beauty to their face with every kind of hat ... you just need to find the right one, darling friend, like almost we all do we have to do!

      Thanking you wholeheartedly for your so lovely presence here today,
      I'm sending hugs, love and smiles on your weekend ಌ•❤•à²Œ

      Elimina
  28. I love this post Dany! I love vintage hats and often wished that women still wore them like they did. Thanks for sharing with SYC.
    hugs,
    Jann

    RispondiElimina
    Risposte
    1. @ Jann
      and I so love having you here, thank you Dearie for gracing my blog today, both with your so lovely, precious presence here and your beautiful words of enthusiasm, meaning so much to me !

      May your day, today, be filled with joy and smiles,
      thank you once again, wholeheartedly ♡ஐ♡

      Elimina
  29. Who would have thought there were so many different kinds of hats! What a lovely history:) Thanks for sharing at Vintage Charm! xo Kathleen|Our Hopeful Home

    RispondiElimina
    Risposte
    1. @ Kathleen
      thank you for blessing my blog today, dearest friend, I just love your comments, you always seem to make my days a bit brighter !!!

      *♥* Wishing you a joy-filled remainder of your week *♥*

      Elimina

I WHOLEHEARTEDLY THANK YOU FOR YOUR THOUGHTS AND WORDS, SO PRECIOUS TO ME.